Smiles from Africa!

"Smiles are the language of love."
~David Hare

This summer I encountered many new experiences- from local customs to foreign food. (Goat meat by the way really is not that bad!) I was on a new continent without my family and friends and little comforts of the modern world. My time in a third world nation was life altering. I learned how to adapt to a lifestyle that included showering with cold water from a bucket, lacking social media and wearing traditional long skirts. I had the chance to emerge myself in a new culture by bonding with individuals who came from a different walk of life.

While I did stick out like a sore thumb (there were not many American blondes in Mozambique!) I found I still had much in common with the orphans; we all loved to smile. These orphans became my heros and quickly stole my heart within my first days in Africa. Many had heart breaking stories; they came from broken homes with as many as 7 to 9 siblings and were abandoned by parents. Yet, these people were very happy. This is a collection of the smiles I found in Mozambique. When anyone questions the safety of my experience I just show a few of these snapshots. :)

The last photo I took in Mozambique. Saying goodbye to the orphans was very difficult!

A market vender proudly displays his produce. 

This boy struck a pose as he tried to persuade me to purchase his food. He was full of spunk! 

A shy smile from a local village child. 

Junior (orange shirt) and his friend liked to borrow my American sunglasses. 

An adorable young girl!

Anna and her sister at the recreation field.  

How can you not love this smile? 

Baby Ontasia had the sweetest, biggest eyes. 

An orphan smiles after receiving a treat from Sunday school.

Fatima and her daughter Monica, who is a two year old with AIDS. 

A young girl waits for her family during food distribution day. 

What grins! 

This girl is proud of her ability to balance her items!

Siblings watching an ongoing soccer game. 

A very sweet little girl. 

That's the smile of someone getting into mischief. 

One of my favorite photos of the trip.

I asked this women if I could take her picture and she shed tears upon seeing it. This was the first photograph she had seen of herself. 

Fernando enjoys a snack at preschool. 

10 Favorite Moments in Africa

I am the type of person that can never decide on a 'favorite.' When asked my favorite holiday, color or food I will always name the list of my top favorites. (My high school senior farewell speech is a great example!) This is also true with my experience in Africa. I could never name a specific time that I loved more than others because each moment was treasured.  So here's a list (in no particular order) of ten favorite experiences in Africa. Trust me, it was hard to narrow down this list! 

1. Market visits were the highlight of my week! Here, I bought my first capalona, a traditional African outfit. I paid 350 metacash which is roughly $10. Capalona's are pieces of colorful clothe, pictured in the background of a market stall. 

2. Bonding with orphans during afternoon walks is a memory I treasure. They loved to hold hands and considered it a privilege to carry a visitors water bottle. 

3. Nap time: because everyone gets tired after a game of soccer. This little guy literally fell asleep on the sports field. 

4. I woke up at 4 a.m. one morning to enjoy a mountainside sunrise.

5. Working with the goat herd which was a new livestock experience for me!

6. Papaya picking with a 15 foot bamboo poll is a challenge! Part of the excitement is wondering if you can actually catch the papaya because the trees are so tall. 

7. International Children's Day was a giant birthday party for all orphans. Here, a preschool instructor is helping me gather the children for a game of 'duck, duck goose'. (One of several American games I taught them including 'simon says' and 'red rover, red rover'.

8. Women often sing and dance during their work, which I encountered on this day. They can even dance while carrying their baskets, I was very impressed!

9. Mozambique agriculture was vastly different from the U.S. I am standing beside a cotton crop while I am used to midwest corn fields!

10. During playtime I was always recruited for the boy's basketball team because of my height. (I was taller than most of the teenage boys at my 5' 6'.) Junior and I are pictured in our 'victory pose.'

A Typical Day in Mozambique

A day working at Orphans Unlimited in Mozambique began at 5:00 a.m. sharp. I lived in a bunkhouse with other female workers, who ranged from age 18 to 75. We arose before the sun had risen so we relied on solar powered lights to get ready. Breakfast was served at 5:30 a.m. and if you missed it well, you missed a meal. The meal consisted of bread but weekends french toast or pancakes were made which was a great treat! I was highly impressed with the meals Linda Stanley, our cook, prepared with her limited resources in the African bush.

Midmorning consisted of working on projects for Orphans Unlimited. Primarily the corn and bean processing was occurring during my stay. Danielle, Melissa and I were the summer team and we assisted with providing the yearly food supply to the orphanage. The work was long, hot and dirty it was vital to the widow's food program and orphan's meals. We would work until 11:30, lunch time. Meals included rice, beans, fresh vegetables, fruits and any leftovers from previous meals.

The hottest time of the day occurred after lunch so we would usually work indoors or rest until afternoon activities commenced. I would usually write letters and read until 1:00. Each afternoon varied depending on the day. Saturdays included trips to the local market, Monday, Wednesday and Friday were preschool class, Tuesdays I conducted an English class, Thursday was food distribution day and Sunday was the prayer walk. Life eventually became a routine that was centered around the needs of the children and Balama village. My favorite days were spent teaching English lessons and exploring the local market.

However, one consistency was activities time. At 3:00 p.m. every day we played games and sports with the orphans (the children would find us if we were not timely!) They enjoyed basketball and soccer the most while I was able to teach them how to use frisbees. I also introduced them to American games such as 'duck duck goose', 'simon says', and 'red rover, red rover.' There was a language barrier as most Mozambiquans speak Portuguese primarily.  The children always wanted to teach me words in their tribal language of Macoa and they enjoyed a good-natured laugh at my expense. By 4:30 we had to depart the recreational fields for supper.

Each week we rotated as kitchen help for Linda. During one of my weeks I helped make goat enchiladas, one of my favorite meals in Mozambique! After supper everyone would return to their bunk houses as it got dark quickly at around 6:00 p.m. In third world country life becomes much more quite when the natural light disappears as there is no electricity. I was very glad the orphanage facilities had solar powered lights. Bedtime approached 7:30 p.m. which I would have never considered in my lifestyle at college! Showering at night was interesting without running water. Buckets of water from the well were heated on a gas stove. Bathing consisted of washing oneself with washcloth and bucket of water. I packed plenty of toiletries as I knew there would be no replacements in Mozambique!

In all, there was nothing "typical" about Mozambique. Each day brought a new adventure, which I tried to capture with my camera. The children adored having their photos taken. However, it did become a problem when they would nearly mob you for their picture. The children do not have access to a mirror so they literally do not know what they look like. (Also, there are no large water sources in the area so even viewing their reflection was not an option.) So, when I was being a tourist the children were only too eager to have their photo taken. I know I will look back on my photos and always treasure my time in Africa.

Sleeping arrangements include mosquito netting over beds to prevent from insects. 

Laundry is washed and dried outside by local women. Orphans Unlimited offers job opportunities to the Balama community through services such as guards, tailors and drivers. 

Weekly English lessons are given to Nelson and Bertino (pictured) and Junior. (Nelson's brother.) Nelson aspires to be an English translator in Mozambique where Portuguese is the national language. 

Saturdays are market days where produce is purchased for the weekly food menu. 

A typical Mozambiquan home made of mud bricks and grass rooftops. Multiple family generations will live in one hut.

All water is pumped by hand from a well and filtered before it is safe to drink. (The average well costs $10,000 to construct.)

Preschool is held three days a week during the afternoons by Madelenia and Carlitos George (pictured teaching a lesson.)

On Wednesdays preschoolers line up in their uniforms where they learn colors, numbers and color.

Thursdays are food distribution day where local women are given weekly rations of household supplies. Many families rely on the stipend which is based on need and family size.

A widow, who cares for dormitory orphans, is given her bean allotment. She will also receive firewood, soap, corn and medicines.  

The typical method to carry items in Mozambique is on your head! From a young age (5 years) children are taught how to carry heavy loads 'headfirst'. 

Each afternoon between 3:00-5:00 pm children gather at the soccer field for games. 

Most children go barefoot in Mozambique. (Not by choice.)

A typical sunday school class includes 130 children! 

"Bush churches" are located on the outskirts of large villages and serve rural populations.  Multiple bush churches have opened since Orphans Unlimited began. 

Church services are colorful experiences filled with music, dancing and even drums in the congregation! 

Sunday school averages 130 children, who are given a sucker at the end for good behavior.

Women's ministry class is held Sunday afternoons followed by a prayer walk to visit the sick.

Reflections

Due to Malaria complications, I will be returning to the U.S. this Thursday. I am very disappointed that my time in Africa has been cut short. Words cannot express how impactful this experience has been. However, blood work from the local hospital indicated continued complications with Malaria. Within hours of my diagnosis I learned I would have to return to the U.S. within 48 hours which was quite shocking! I will be back on Brammer Farms recuperating for the rest of the summer. It typically takes 3 to 4 months to recover from these complications. I will rest in order to be 100 percent by fall semester but “resting” is not exactly in my vocabulary. Yet, I know this is important for my health.

I strongly encourage individuals, especially college students, to experience life in a third world country. You quickly learn to appreciate the little things we take for granted in the U.S. like running water, electricity, internet and cell phone service. My greatest challenge during my internship was communication. (Yes, waking up at 4:30 am and having a bedtime of 7 pm was difficult as well!) The only phone call I made this summer was to my parents to inform them of my diagnosis and flight change. Technology is simply very limited in the bush. Texting, snap chats and Facebook was not an option this summer. I felt cut off from the rest of the world.

However, it is truly a small price to pay for the lasting good development work brings. The medical care, food supply, clean well water, orphanage housing and religious devotion that Orphans Unlimited provides to the Balama community of Mozambique is critical. There are more than 1,700 orphans in the total programs that rely on this endeavor to not only sustain life but to survive. Widows and local villagers are also given much needed employment opportunities. They work as washer women, guards, brick layers and pastors for Orphans Unlimited. In fact, the entire community relies on this program. The hospital receives its patient food supply from Orphans Unlimited as the Mozambiquan government lacks resources to provide for sick citizens.  Many communities in the district have access to clean water because of Orphans Unlimited. They have drilled wells, a timely and expensive process, so villagers can have water during the dry season.

 I found great joy in the agriculture development work I completed. My favorite endeavor was the goat herd. I have a livestock background with cattle and horses so goats were a new experience! A goat can drastically improve life for a Mozambiquan family.  They are an excellent source of protein and can provide extra income through breeding programs. However, a challenge is sustainability. It is difficult to convince Mozambiquans of the long term good of breeding programs verses short term consumption gain. I read about these concepts in my agricultural economics classes before traveling to Mozambique so it was interesting to see these real life issues first hand.

The bean and corn processing was another critical project I worked with.  The orphanage’s yearly food supply was prepared during three weeks of my internship. Daily, 500 bags weighing 75 kg were filled with corn or beans that were sprayed to protect against insect infestation. This was a long and dirty process! Workers unloaded the beans into shoots to clean and spray. The bags, which were very heavy, were then carried into a storage facility. Guards watch the warehouse 24-7 as thievery is common in Mozambique.

You feel a sense of accomplishment knowing you helped prepare a year’s worth of food for children in need. This summer I worked with the Balama orphanage which consists of 80 children. I got to know most personally and will miss them greatly. I have many pictures to post once I am back in the U.S! The children warm your heart because they smile constantly and are so happy with the little they have. Working with Mozambiquan orphans was a humbling experience. I look forward to sharing my adventures upon my return to the U.S.

Tomorrow, I depart Balama, Mozambique at 6:30 a.m. to drive three hours to the Pemba airport. From there I fly to Johannesburg, South Africa. My return flight is much shorter, only 12 hours, due to time zone change. I arrive early Thursday morning in Atlanta, Georgia to the U.S. and then make my final destination to Kansas City, Missouri. My family will be waiting for me at my terminal and I am looking forward to seeing them and of course, Teddy.

Exploring the African Bush

The highlight of my week was taking a drive through the African bush for a picnic! In the wild outback of Mozambique, or the bush, roads are simply small paths among the grasses. This is the closest I have been to taking a safari. The grass was taller than our truck! (Note, trucks are known as “bucky’s” here.)  Among the scenery I spotted an occasional cotton field tended by local farmers. I have only seen one livestock farm so far in the country, with only five very poor looking cattle. As we neared the mountainside we passed through remote villages. Villagers were surprised to see a vehicle, let alone white people. I am sure they will be remarking on our jaunt for days.

One morning we arose at 3 am to watch the African sunrise from nearby cliffs. It was breathtaking! The sun rose just above mountains revealing a sea of green trees below. African trees are much different than the oaks, evergreens and spruces of the U.S. The scenery reminded me of the Lion King! Mozambique lacks the exotic wildlife of other African nations. Nearly all animals were killed in the war, but there is an occasional elephant spotting. (I am keeping my fingers crossed and camera ready!) Unfortunately, the elephants are known for destroying villages and fields while searching for food.

I met a Peace Corps volunteer, Rafael Hernandez, from Washington. I was shocked to find another American (or white person) my own age in Mozambique. He just graduated with a degree in physics and serves as a science teacher at Balama school. Rafael said the school system is very poor with limited resources. Each classroom typically has one textbook so students learn from their notes. The greatest challenge is teacher attendance, most teachers come to their classes intoxicated. Students must wait for hours outside the building for teachers to even show up. But, Rafael enjoys teaching his students and invited me to help him make peanut butter, his favorite Mozambiquan pastime.

I already know I will have reverse culture shock returning to the U.S., especially with my wardrobe. In Mozambique, showing knees is taboo as it indicates you are a wonton woman. Therefore, I have been wearing long skirts daily (I now know how pioneer women felt!) I wear tennis shoes to prevent snake and insect bites. Nightly I empty piles of dirt from my shoes. I will not take running water for granted again.  Guards pump clean water for my bunk house which I must then warm and carry to the shower area. Diet is dictated by the seasons because of limited food imports. Most products come from South Africa but meat and dairy are nonexistent. Lemons, watermelons, bananas and papayas  are currently available at the market.

I tried white watermelon for the first time! I do not recommend it as it is bland tasting. I also had my first papaya picking experience. The tallest papaya trees yield the first ripe fruit when they turn from green to yellow. By tying two bamboo poles together and having a Mozambiquan guard stand on three bricks we were able to reach ripe papayas from an 18 foot tree. Pictures of the experience are humorous! Catching the falling fruit is the most difficult part but it was a great addition to dinner.  I also had chance to work in the orphanage’s garden. Garden work is done by hand with a hoe and buckets for water (no water hoses here!) The gardens are covered with mesh to prevent insect contamination.

If you ever find yourself in Mozambique remember to never touch monkey beans. I thought a plant looked familiar. It was not until after I touched the prickly bean pods that I remembered they are notorious for making you itchy. After a thorough hand washing and several hours later my hands and arms were itch-free.

Today, I went on a weekly prayer walk with Orphans Unlimited staff. We walk to the nearest village, Balama, to check on sick individuals. The villages consist of many mud huts made out of Mozambique bricks.  Typically several family generations live in each hut. (Having five to seven children per family is normal in Mozambique.) Everyone walks or rides bicycles here but you see occasional motorcycles on the roads. All roads are dirt and covered in red dust so walking is a grimy venture! I look forward to my next outing in the bush. I have been taking many pictures of the wilds of Africa and cannot wait to share them on my return.

Firsts in Mozambique

Sunday church services in Mozambique are colorful experiences filled with loud clapping, expressive songs and lively dancing. Locals even bring their own drums to church! The services are around 45 minutes long and Sunday school follows. More than 150 village children attend and they enjoy learning bible stories with books and puppets. (They absolutely adore the puppets!) At my first service I found myself being pulled to my feet by an elderly women. She only spoke Portuguese and despite my protests of “poco Portuguese”, meaning I speak little Portuguese, she began explaining the complicated dance steps. When she finally realized I was not following her she jumped up and showed me how to “shake it” in front of the congregation. I can dance a great two step or cupid shuffle in the U.S., but African dances are another matter entirely! All English attendees were the honoured guests and the children sang a special song for us. Their voices were beautiful! This is a very friendly country and even the markets are filled with music and dancing.

In the markets I often hear old popular 90’s American tunes by groups like N’SYNC and the Spice Girls. My South African friend, Danielle, informed me that Africa is slightly behind in the times. She asked me what trends were popular in the U.S. and I told her leggings, button up shirts, neon prints and North Face jackets. Danielle informed me those will probably be trendy in three years in South Africa. She also told me she was from a small town with a population of 70,000. My hometown of Gallatin, Mo., has a population of 1,200 which astounded her! Afrikaans is the main language of South Africa although native languages and English are widely spoken. Most schools even teach students at least three languages fluently. Danielle has taught me Afrikaans phrases, such as “I want to sloop in a corner,” which means you want to take a nap!

The bean processing was officially finished this week which was very exciting. Monday begins corn processing which will entail unloading, cleaning and spraying the corn to be stored for the upcoming year. Many locals are hired to help with the yearly grain buying. I stand at 5’ 6’ and am taller than most male workers here! Supplies must be bought in advance to ensure the orphans will have food throughout the year. Corn work will continue throughout June. To mark the beginning of June I have helped prepare for one of the largest yearly celebrations. June 1 is International Children’s Day which is considered a major youth holiday in Africa. Many of the children do not know their birthdays so this is the day for general birthday celebrations. All village children are invited to an event sponsored by the orphanage where they spend a fun-filled afternoon playing games and receiving cookies and candies. I am in charge of preparing games which will include sack runs, relay races and limbo.

Each week a staff member rotates assisting Linda, our cook, with meal preparation. This week was my kitchen assistant time. I greatly enjoy the fresh tropical fruit here especially the bananas and watermelon! The sweetest food I have eaten is banana cake. (Everyone knows I have a sweet tooth and in the U.S. I enjoy baking my famous homemade chocolate chip cookies!) Goat is a popular meat here, I find myself missing American beef. Dairy products are difficult to come by as well so I will be without milk and cheese this summer. Luckily, my diet in Africa has expanded beyond rice and beans as I had feared! Linda is great at making homemade meals out of limited resources as she even made enchiladas last night.  This week, I found myself missing American food. I will be eating my fill of cereal, hamburgers and ice cream when I return!  

Travel, always an adventure!

You never know what adventures travel will bring. During my second week in Mozambique I have contracted Malaria which has been quite an adventure itself. Thursday morning at the baby clinic, I had a headache and stomach pains. After lying down, I soon had a high fever and was diagnosed with Malaria. Malaria is a tropical sickness spread through mosquito bites.  It is a frustrating illness as I am bedridden for several days with joint aches, headaches, light sensitivity and loss of appetite.  I even took precautions by taking anti-Malaria medication and consistently applying insect repellent. Thankfully, Brenda is a registered nurse and has taken excellent care of Danielle and I, as she was also stricken. I have been on medication the past three days and have two more days of bed rest. Danielle and I keep each other entertained by playing card games. (There is limited entertainment in third world countries!) I look forward to Monday when I can begin to process beans again.

The past week has been devoted to bean processing. My job is quality control as I ensure beans run through the shoot have been sprayed with preservative. This is important as it protects the beans from insects during storage. The beans and corn processed during the next few weeks will be the yearly food supply for the orphans. I also clean my shoot in between bags as they get contaminated from different bean bags. Workers load 150 lb bags of beans into the metal shoot and it is an impressive process to watch as a Mozambiquean can carry one bag on his head! The job begins at 6 am and ends at lunch time. It gets dusty and dirty but is an essential time of year for the orphanage.

Once a week, the orphanage staff hosts a baby clinic. Each Thursday mothers with newborns bring babies for a health check. The babies are weighed, measured and growth progress is recorded. A set of twin boys came in this week weighing under 8 lbs each, they were very tiny! The mothers are given milk formula and medicines which are not readily available outside of the cities. Several babies had been in the local hospital. In Mozambique, basic medical procedures such as tonsil removal or a C-section can be extremely risky due to limited medical knowledge. I am located in Balama, which has a hospital but no post office. (So please do not expect any letters from me!)

I have made my first trip to the local market, which is made up of many stalls in the streets. Wares range from bicycle parts to vegetables. Bicycles are the most common means of transportation but you will find several motorcycles in the streets. Markets here are not as intense as in Vietnam, where bartering for the good almost wore you out and shopkeepers would try to drag you into their stalls! The hand dyed African clothe is beautiful, with exotic patterns and brilliant designs. They are sold in pieces and one can make an entire traditional African outfit. Everyone is very friendly in the market, and I thought I was making friends with local children. However, apparently they were laying their hands out to me for money, not high fives! I think I confused both of us, again culture differences. I have also had to turn down several marriage proposals here. Apparently, blonde haired American girls are a rarity here!

This week is just filled with new experiences. Contracting Malaria was not fun but I am sure it will be an excellent conversation starter back in the U.S. We had several wildlife spottings of a mongoose and cobra. Luckily, the guards had killed the cobra as snakes are ‘not my thing.’  But, the mongoose was an interesting tropical creature that resembled a weasel combined with a ferret. I hope to see more wildlife in the coming days. This weekend I will be resting up and taking plenty of fluids. Until next week!