Exploring the African Bush

The highlight of my week was taking a drive through the African bush for a picnic! In the wild outback of Mozambique, or the bush, roads are simply small paths among the grasses. This is the closest I have been to taking a safari. The grass was taller than our truck! (Note, trucks are known as “bucky’s” here.)  Among the scenery I spotted an occasional cotton field tended by local farmers. I have only seen one livestock farm so far in the country, with only five very poor looking cattle. As we neared the mountainside we passed through remote villages. Villagers were surprised to see a vehicle, let alone white people. I am sure they will be remarking on our jaunt for days.

One morning we arose at 3 am to watch the African sunrise from nearby cliffs. It was breathtaking! The sun rose just above mountains revealing a sea of green trees below. African trees are much different than the oaks, evergreens and spruces of the U.S. The scenery reminded me of the Lion King! Mozambique lacks the exotic wildlife of other African nations. Nearly all animals were killed in the war, but there is an occasional elephant spotting. (I am keeping my fingers crossed and camera ready!) Unfortunately, the elephants are known for destroying villages and fields while searching for food.

I met a Peace Corps volunteer, Rafael Hernandez, from Washington. I was shocked to find another American (or white person) my own age in Mozambique. He just graduated with a degree in physics and serves as a science teacher at Balama school. Rafael said the school system is very poor with limited resources. Each classroom typically has one textbook so students learn from their notes. The greatest challenge is teacher attendance, most teachers come to their classes intoxicated. Students must wait for hours outside the building for teachers to even show up. But, Rafael enjoys teaching his students and invited me to help him make peanut butter, his favorite Mozambiquan pastime.

I already know I will have reverse culture shock returning to the U.S., especially with my wardrobe. In Mozambique, showing knees is taboo as it indicates you are a wonton woman. Therefore, I have been wearing long skirts daily (I now know how pioneer women felt!) I wear tennis shoes to prevent snake and insect bites. Nightly I empty piles of dirt from my shoes. I will not take running water for granted again.  Guards pump clean water for my bunk house which I must then warm and carry to the shower area. Diet is dictated by the seasons because of limited food imports. Most products come from South Africa but meat and dairy are nonexistent. Lemons, watermelons, bananas and papayas  are currently available at the market.

I tried white watermelon for the first time! I do not recommend it as it is bland tasting. I also had my first papaya picking experience. The tallest papaya trees yield the first ripe fruit when they turn from green to yellow. By tying two bamboo poles together and having a Mozambiquan guard stand on three bricks we were able to reach ripe papayas from an 18 foot tree. Pictures of the experience are humorous! Catching the falling fruit is the most difficult part but it was a great addition to dinner.  I also had chance to work in the orphanage’s garden. Garden work is done by hand with a hoe and buckets for water (no water hoses here!) The gardens are covered with mesh to prevent insect contamination.

If you ever find yourself in Mozambique remember to never touch monkey beans. I thought a plant looked familiar. It was not until after I touched the prickly bean pods that I remembered they are notorious for making you itchy. After a thorough hand washing and several hours later my hands and arms were itch-free.

Today, I went on a weekly prayer walk with Orphans Unlimited staff. We walk to the nearest village, Balama, to check on sick individuals. The villages consist of many mud huts made out of Mozambique bricks.  Typically several family generations live in each hut. (Having five to seven children per family is normal in Mozambique.) Everyone walks or rides bicycles here but you see occasional motorcycles on the roads. All roads are dirt and covered in red dust so walking is a grimy venture! I look forward to my next outing in the bush. I have been taking many pictures of the wilds of Africa and cannot wait to share them on my return.